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| S. Juan: Es el Pueblo en la Calle |
2005 © Oficina Virtual de Turismo
Of all the popular saints of June, St. John the Baptist is the one most
celebrated in Europe - João, Joan, Jean, John, Iván, Sean, depending on the
country where the festivity occurs.
However, it is in the city of Porto the celebrations in praise of St. John are
more spontaneous. Porto's St. John is a big, bellyful celebration and has to be
understood as a great manifestation of the masses, one that is eminently
joyful, popular and lasting all night, with a whole city outdoors, in a happy
and fraternal collective social intercourse.
St. John is a cyclic celebration, clearly of pagan origin, based fundamentally
in amorous "spells," charms and incantations related, on the one hand, with
marriage, health, happiness but also closely linked to ancient pagan rituals of
the sun and fire and to the virtues of holy herbs, dew, bonfires, and of river,
sea and fountain waters.
Whoever jumps a bonfire an odd number of times - the minimum being three times
on St. John's Eve is protected against all evils for the whole year. According
to tradition, the ashes of such a bonfire cure certain skin illnesses. Other
ailments can benefit from swims taken before dawn on St. John's Day. Results of
swims taken in Porto at the beaches along river Douro and at the Foz shore had
a nine fold increase…
Morning dew is related to fecundity. If a woman rolls on the wet grass of the
fields at dawn she will be ready to conceive. According to an old concept,
morning dew was regarded as the sweat or saliva of the fertility gods. Another
ancient tradition assures that love affairs that begin during 81. John's
celebrations last longer than the ones that begin at Carnival, which never
reach Christmas.
An old St. John’s habit consists of making coloured paper balloons rise in the
air like lighted suns, impelled by the smoke and the heat of a flame that burns
up an oil or resin fuse. These practices are old reminders of an ancient sun
worship. St. John is also a matchmaker. At the strike of midnight, the
marriageable girl throws a carnation on the street. If a boy catches it, she
will soon marry. The month of June elapses swiftly through the singing of the
cicadas and the loud red laughter of the poppies. The olive leaf is also part
of the sortilege of love songs: "Oh St. John the Baptist / hear me
for I'm unwed / and find me a husband / on these olive
leaves ahead." Not so long ago, the inhabitants of the city used to
build wooden arches to deck certain streets for the great festivity. The top of
the arches had a triangular shape, which used to symbolise the sun in certain
ancient religions.
Christianity has known, in an intelligent manner, how to Christianise pagan
rites in general, and St. John’s in particular. The name of the saint came to
dominate and proclaim a festivity that takes place in Porto on the eve of the
24 June, with parades, festivals everywhere in the city, and popular dances.
Porto’s St. John means people outdoors, crowds overflowing avenues, squares and
streets, emerging from alleys and lanes, carrying leaks or brandishing small
hammers, always with a witty remark that normally degenerates into naughtiness,
yet claiming the real sense of a solidarity paean, seeing that it is spoken in
jest.
It is this scent of people, of basil and balm, it is this popular poetry
impregnated with the people’s cheerful mood that fills June in Porto, expands
from the heart of the people and rises in the air as shining fireworks that
lighten up the sleepless night.
In the most central streets – which welcome unusual crowds until the break of
dawn – hole herbs and aromatic plants are on sale, particularly basil, the
symbolic plant of this celebration; leek, regarded by many as a remnant of
ancient phallic cults; carnations and balm. According to the revellers, these
and other herbs have specific virtues due to the morning dew. They are
indifferently used for therapeutic purposes; to guarantee happy love affairs or
an impending marriage; to successfully close business deals; or to protect
against flashes of lightening or the evil eye.
Tradition in Porto has also created another unique way of celebrating St. John,
by placing the saint’s graven image on the typical “cascata” – a landscape
model filled with popular symbols -, which is a true work of art of imaginative
creation and a perfect artistic execution, exclusively made in Porto. There
stands the graven image of the saint with his inseparable symbol – the biblical
sheep – which, in turn is connected with pastoral elements and with the flock
that brings to mind the traditional dainty of this festive season: the lamb or
roasted kid with potatoes and oven rice. Such a worthy festival also includes
broiled sardines and the usual “caldo verde” (cabbage soup), as well as hot
buttered bread with coffee, enjoyed by the warmth of the bonfires.
Germano Silva
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